Monday, January 25, 2010

F/W 2010-11: PARIS PART DEUX

DIOR HOMME







Kris Van Assche's latest collection for Dior Homme is kind of, er, boring? As a rabid DH fan, I honestly haven't felt the same about the fashion house since Hedi Slimane's departure from the label in 2007. What I do appreciate in this (and most every DH) collection is the very sharp tailoring and classic color pallette (black, gray, white, bone, pewter). I am quite smitten with the oversized overcoat in the photo above, as well as with the beautiful matte gray finish on the leathers:




LANVIN





Lanvin's urban safari story took my breath away! Everything about this collection is smart, elegant and quite original. Alber Elbaz and Lucas Ossendrijver definitely upped the ante for menswear this season, offering a dramatic mix of cultural references and just the right amount of flash:


This one is straight-up 70's-era Bowie; it's also a nod to the current shrunken sweater trend also seen on Prada's runway.




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Loving the metallics, the sci-fi camouflage, the spiky bungee-cord bags, even the color-coordinated headbands! A+

ANN DEMEULEMEESTER






Always a personal favorite, Ann Demeulemeester has a formula and she's sticking to it: 80's goth-rock garb for rich kids. She didn't disappoint with this collection; I love the "mixing business with leather" vibe, the "precious" boy who quietly slips out on school nights in search of a little bloody fun. The construction of each look is fantastic (especially in the trousers, from the high-gloss cargo pant to the white and khaki jodhpur-style skinnies), and the knits and accessories are to die for ...




literally.