POSTCARDS FROM MILAN

A few random looks from Milan:

DSQUARED2 S/S 2011

Can't go wrong with hot guys in their underwear!

MARNI S/S 2011

I love the sunglasses!

MOSCHINO S/S 2011

This is actually really awful.

COSTUME NATIONAL S/S 2011

All of my favorite colors; American Psycho vibes = A+

MILAN: GUCCI

Gucci remains the definition of conspicuous luxury (aside from Louis Vuitton and Hermes, perhaps). Tom Ford's successor Frida Giannini understands the Gucci customer: monied, well-traveled and reverential to Gucci legend. Frida never disappoints, even when she's toning it down.

I am most impressed by the short-shorts (which are everywhere; gentlemen, I hope you've kept up with your fitness regimens) and the always-amazing accessories. The detailing is surprisingly subtle, but fantastic:

And this backpack is it:

MILAN: ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

Perhaps as a consequence of recent history, Sarah Burton and co. offered a sobering collection for Alexander McQueen. Yet in contrast to the house's last womenswear collection (which was inspired by the art of the Dark Ages, and in itself a break from McQueen's signature runway theatrics), this mens presentation lacked the spiritual, sublime aspects that became de rigueur in McQueen's final designs. What we see now is a bit 2+2=4; a few really fabulous coats, roomy pants, elegantly dyed and constructed sportcoats ... but paired with a hodgepodge of pieces that look illogical in proportion and wearability which ultimately left me confused and a little sad. Tell me, what do you think?

MILAN: TRUSSARDI 1911

Milan Vukmirovic's designs for the slept-on Trussardi 1911 are becoming a personal favorite. His latest collection is simple, sexy, wearable and cheeky. Vukmirovic isn't afraid to dress his man up in nautical Warhol-stripes (in the picture above), Native American prints or leopard spots:

... or down in a simple white T-shirt, highwaters and short-shorts. A little something for everyone, n'est-ce pas?

MILAN: BURBERRY GOES BIKER!

This jacket ... is .... killing me dead. Lethal.

Christopher Bailey's last collection for Burberry Prorsum was all about shearling. Yeah, I wasn't impressed either. This time, though, the pouty metrosexual Burberry man swaddled in brown suede was gone. His replacement? Tough-as-shit, pouty and pasty skinny boys! Hooray!

Before Bailey gave Burberry a much-needed dose of sex appeal with Prorsum, you couldn't convince me to buy a thing from the British trench-makers. I equated Burberry with the (often ugly) "Novacheck," usually splashed all over diaper bags I'd see moms carrying around at the mall. Everything changed when Bailey unveiled that infamous Prorsum line where suddenly the Novacheck disappeared and everything was studded and black. You know the one? 

Anyway, many years later I'd come to own not one, but three Burberry jackets, all of them completely indispensable to me. And the studs are back! Burberry Prosum S/S 2011 is my favorite collection so far. 

MILAN: PRADA S/S 2011

Just started combing through the menswear collections  ... and while Alexander McQueen felt lacking (and a little sad, but more on that later), Prada cheered me up! I've been contemplating the dreary turn fashion has taken recently, and leave it to the Renaissance Lady Miuccia Prada to make the revival of "minimalism" feel fun and fresh (and young!):

Prada can often feel odd, but never disingenuous. I love the horizontal necklines, the bright colors paired with khaki, weird medical-scrubs and the shoes (of course), however I do find Miuccia's fascination with the "ugly sweater" disengaging.

More on the latest menswear from Milan soon ...

MENSWEAR - MILAN S/S 2011 CRASH COURSE

JIL SANDER S/S 2011

Men's Fashion Week  in Milan is upon us, and Style.com is offering a crash-course for those not entirely familiar with who's-who on the menswear scene. Raf Simons for Jil Sander opened Fashion Week in Florence last night, and the remaining designers will show in Milan throughout the week. Get ready, folks!

MILAN FASHION WEEK ROUNDUP

So, I think I've finally got my sea-legs after that nasty bout of influ-whatevah and now that I've got enough energy to blog, this slow connection speed is keeping my internet activities at a snail's pace! Anyway, things should be back to normal shortly. Here's a small roundup of the rest of Milan's womenswear collections ...

VERSUS

Christopher Kane's debut RTW collection for the long-slumbering Versus label is generating a lot of buzz among the fashion flock. What began as a capsule-like collection of accessories, commissioned by Donatella Versace in a bid to reanimate her brand's youthful diffusion line, has become a fascinating pas-de-deux between the two designers, culminating in rave reviews and a cheeky, mischievous collection of bondage-lite cocktail dresses. The press are having a field day pitting the nimble Kane against the Dragon Lady, and I'm loving every minute.

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

Apparently Rachel Zoe was losing her shit over this collection, and considering Ferragamo has been out of the clothing business for aeons I have to admit it's pretty darn good ...

Zoe was obviously hypnotised by these Lurex stunners.

GUCCI


I am always and forever a bit of a Gucci man, and Frida G. has been knocking 'em out of the ballpark lately. Her latest efforts were definitely less sexually-charged (or retro-leaning, for that matter) than in recent years:

I thought this jacket was stunning.


I don't know ... I'm a bit bored with this suede-y, '70's vibe I'm getting from the Milan shows. Critics are pointing to a return to the "wearable" or "functional" or "sale-able." I miss the '80's-ed out, Helmut Newton femmes fatales of Gucci's past ... the razor sharp, dangerous types that Frida so convincingly sent down the runway last year. Oh, well. Cruise 2010 is right around the corner ...

MENSWEAR - MILAN CONTINUED

BURBERRY PRORSUM

Can't say that I'm swept away by Burberry's F/W 2010 offerings ... But Burberry is always best for coats and jackets anyway, right? Those wellies do look very comfortable ...

As soon as I can I'll start on the Paris shows, which in my opinion are always the most exciting. Dries Van Noten, Viktor & Rolf, Louis Vuitton ... I'll have them up soon. Or if you're impatient, head over to GQ for all the 2010/11 looks.

P.S. What is with the fug models this year?!!!

GUCCI MENSWEAR 2010/11 CLIP

Nirvana on the soundtrack?! A+

PRADA F/W 2010/11